Just complicated enough
Burger source
The White Swan is a lovely local boozer near my office in Aldgate East. Full carpet, stool, woodpanel experience, and staffed by the loveliest people you can imagine, it is a favourite for an after-work pint. After hosting a community meet up for me in their very reasonable private room, we spotted the burger ‘residency’ in progress with the folk from Buntrix.
I can’t find much info on who Buntrix are, but the food looked great and by the time we were free to eat, it was 8.30 so… needless to say, it had to be done. BT colleagues, strap in, you’re going to want this as a reference point for any visits you have planned to One Braham.
The order
I went for the The Flame Stack, a bacon cheeseburger with grilled onions and burger sauce on a soft toasted bun, with just enough lettuce and pickles to make it messy and a little bit complex.
For some people, the search is for an uncomplicated burger. For me, well, regular readers will know that I’m drawn to just a little complexity to bring the flavour contrast that makes the burger such a paragon of modern cuisine. We need the sweet/salt contrast, we need the soft/crisp contrast, I quite like the fresh/unguent contrast, and the additional separate sweetness, crisp and sourness of the salad and pickles. Ultimately, what I think many will agree is – we need the gestalt operating in service of a more jaw-dropping gastronomic experience.
If you think that’s too dramatic a send-up for a burger, well, then, perhaps stop reading now as it’s only going to get worse.
The meat of it
Look at it. There’s something unassuming about this. It’s almost a burger that you might have at home, served up off the BBQ after being Dad-sembled on a not particularly well considered production line. But that simple and relatively plain presentation gives off clues that it is something else; something different; something better. Look at the melt on the cheese; the peek of dark, crisp bacon, the amazing sear on the meat, the gentle glisten of the bun, the bright, fresh lettuce. There’s more to this burger than meets the eye.
In cross section, you see more messiness. Onion and lettuce clump out; the coarse ground meat seems barely held together. The bun seems to compress immediately and struggle to hold up under the burden of the (5oz?) patty. It’s hard to tell if we’re dealing gourmet style or smash patty but… either way, it’s messy.
First bite. If you’d been judging the book by its cover, you would at this point be slapping yourself. Because the clumsy, BBQ aesthetics of this burger give way to a flavour and mouthfeel explosion. The bun is soft, sweet and pliant; the crust of the patty brings crunch, the meat itself melts away with a lingering sense of beef and happiness. This is compounded by the additional crunch and umami explosion of the crispy, thick cut bacon. The vegetables add sweetness, and sourness from the pickle and a faint hint of both in the burger sauce bind everything gloriously. The grilled onions add, too – a gentle, sweet bite in every mouthful. If this burger was a robot it would be Voltron because the whole is far more immense and powerful than the parts are, and despite looking like a glorious mess when combined – it is a tremendous force for good.
As to the fries? Good. Crisp with fluffy potato interior – slightly underseasoned – which is fine – because that makes dunking them in the provided, unrequested mayo and ketchup pots clearly part of their design.
Together? Fabulous. Really, really good combination. Can recommend.
Monkey finger rating
Bun – 4.5/5 – despite what looked like excessive squidge
Build – 1.5/5
Burger – 4.5/5 5
Taste – 4.5/5
Sides – 4/5 –
Value – 5/5 – £16 for burger and side, ish.
Burger rating – 4.5/5 – I would go back for this tomorrow. Seriously, I’d like to.
The deets
The White Swan is tucked away on Alie Street, directly behind the BT building. It’s a delight; food’s served from 12 noon-9pm and you can find them here.
Burger Source 