Junk Smash Burgers, Marylebone, London

Curiously sauced, otherwise perfect smashburger

Burger source 

This growing chain of independent smashburger restaurants was founded in 2021 and has multiple UK sites now; the Marylebone branch provided me with my burger via Deliveroo. It seems like it’s grown fast, its concept of simple burgers (singles/doubles/quadruples/etc), UK sourced quality meat, and french style brioche bun burgers seems to be doing pretty well. Let’s get into it.

The order 

The menu is pretty simple. Multiples of patty, brioche bun, cheese and burger sauce (with a few specials on the side). I went for the ‘L’ – Brioche bun, three smashed beef patties (premium UK-Sourced meat), top-tier cheese and a homemade Junk sauce. The patties are pretty small, so this isn’t as indulgent as it sounds, as you’ll see from the pics. The combo – came with skin on seasoned fries, and a pot of sauce – I chose their junk sauce. Let’s check it out.

The meat of it 

It pretty much looks like the paragon of a smashburger. Small, maybe, but the softest bun, the most impressive melt on the cheese you’ve ever seen, and a perfect crust on the meat.

In cross section…

The cross section reinforces my initial observations. This is perfectly formed. The coarse ground beef is fully crisped and flattened, the pile up with the cheese provides an unctuous pile, soft and steaming – this is looking good. First taste – it is a perfectly bound thing.

First bite… and in addition to the perfect seasoned beef, the crisp crunch, the soft cheese, the soft bun… and the slightly weird, vinegary burger sauce. In the burger it sort of works – sweet bread, and some light sourness from the sauce, crisp sear and soft bite of the burger itself, savoury goodness and gooey cheese binding it all beautifully. It’s a good burger. A little overly savoury, and there’s only so much of that sauce I could take. But it’s really good on the whole.

The fries made me sad I had delivery. They looked perfect. But were slightly steamed in the box, so not as crisp as I’m sure they would have been fresh. They are perfectly seasoned; a lingering crisp on the outside and soft, fluffy, starchy interior.

But the junk sauce? Nuh-uh. Too much vinegar. Not sure what it wants to be. There’s something that feels like a mayo base, there’s no sweetness from any pickle or relish, it’s just sour. Acrid. Poor. But maybe it’s an acquired taste.

Monkey finger rating  

Bun –  5/5 – soft, sweet, and yet sturdy enough to do the job
Build – 5/5 – perfect construction for what it is
Burger – 4/5 – near perfect smashburger construction. Possibly better meat/bun ratio would have improved it slightly.
Taste –  4/5 – that sauce man. So weird. 
Sides – 4/5 – great fries. Weird sauce.   

Value – 4/5 – £15.50 for burger and fries, plus deliveroo fees put it at about £17.  

Burger rating – 4/5 – the whole is diminished by the sauce.

The deets 

They’re all over. Find more here, and/or check out Deliveroo.

Big Fernand, Issy-les-Molyneaux, Paris

A juicy Gallic smashburger (smashburgé?), worth travelling for.

Burger source

Ok, I’ll freely admit – I googled ‘burger restaurant’ near the hotel we were staying at for a business trip and Big Fernand jumped out. I liked the pictures so we headed down.

However, having Google translated the copy on the webpage for this review, I’m SO pleased we went as would TOTALLY travelled for this even if it hadn’t been convenient:

“In the middle of a small Parisian street, at the end of a restaurant of district embalmed with the smell of herbs and fresh bread. A band of mustachus is busy at the rhythm of the sizzling meat just chopped to revisit a dish known by all: the hamburger. Their Hamburgs caress the sweet dream of seducing the most refractory skeptics and offer a second romance to the lovers convinced of the burger. This is how Big Fernand was born: a mixture of popular culture of a dish that brings together people from all backgrounds and products gleaned throughout France.”

There’s only one right reaction to this: wow.

The burgers are cooked as ‘smash’ burgers -a healthy portion of the mince is rolled into a ball and squished down onto the grill with a heavy spatula, cooked in its own fat until crispy, scraped off the grill, flipped for a lesser version of the same treatment before being topped and stacked on the bun, then wrapped in grease-proof paper to serve. By coincidence, my favourite food blogger/scientist Kenji Lopez-Alt has just released a video on the art of a smashburger which explains this technique in a bit more detail (although Big Fernand use MUCH bigger patties and manage to carry it off).

The order

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Pat and I both had the Bartholome, Beef, Swiss Raclette, bacon (lots of bacon), caramelised onions and chives, topped with Big Fernand’s own BBQ sauce. I admit, I ‘doubled up’ for €4, having only had a salad for lunch, which added a second patty, more bacon, cheese and an entire (totally unnecessary) portion of fries. Pat opted for ‘herb fries’ and I went for Paprika fries. All that for €14 (€18 for my double) – with our choice of soft drink. We were offered a choice of how we wanted the burgers cooked and both opted for medium.

The meat of it

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Holy moley. This was a monster. The slightly floppy, very simple seeded white burger bun barely stood up to the heft of a single patty, much less my double. The raclette was copious and melty, and the bacon in plentiful supply, providing a salty chew. The BBQ sauce provided a necessary sweetness, cutting back on the incredible umami from the rest of the burger. Whilst Pat detected a hint of sweetness from the onions, they were lost in my behemoth of a burger. Not a terrible thing given the general deliciousness of the burger as a gestalt.

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The meat itself was a cooked a bit over medium (unusual for France, where the colour ratings on meat are usually one down on what we order in the UK – i.e. medium is usually medium rare etc)., but the high fat ratio of the beef (essential in a smash burger) meant it was no less juicy for it, and the cheese, bacon and BBQ sauce complimented it beautifully. I think they could improve the bun – a sturdier potato roll or even a brioche bun might have stood up to the burger slightly better – but this is really a very minor concern in what was an otherwise magnificent mound of meat (and stuff).

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The fries… were slightly chewier than I’d expect for ‘freshly’ cooked fries (perhaps our batch wasn’t that fresh), and Pat’s herb fries were reminiscent of Honest Burger’s rosemary fries. But the seasoning was nice. They were served with a garlic aioli which was unnecessary (chips needed sweetness, not further saltiness!). Not bad as a combo at all!

Monkey finger rating

Bun –  3/5
Build – 5/5
Burger – 5/5
Taste –  4.5/5
Sides – 4/5
Value – 4/5 – €14/€18 translates to around £12-£15  for the burger, side and drink, and that’s definitely not bad, but probably a little on the high side vs. the very good value burgers you get in London these days. That said, this includes the ‘Brexit’ depreciation tax, given the value of the pound now vs June 22nd 2016…

Burger rating – 4.5/5 – I am totally going back the next opportunity I have to be in range. Fresh, delicious burgers, great service with amusing, interested staff happy to practice their English with us… and lots more to try.

The deets

Big Fernand has lots of locations, but the one we went to was here:  30 rue Ernest Renan, 92130 Issy-Les-Moulineaux. +33 1 41 90 72 55.

There’s even one in London if you can’t wait for the next Paris trip!  12 Percy Street W1T 1DY Londres, +44 207 81 32 586.